Life’s a beach at this stunning Sri Lankan seafront resort

The ocean is the OG shapeshifter: it can be beautiful, moody, mysterious, dynamic, free, relaxing, wild, fearsome, and whatever else it sets its mind to be.

From the top of a secluded rocky outcrop on Sri Lanka’s southern coast, I get a glimpse of its untamed nature, revealed with every crashing wave and rising swell. My viewpoint, the aptly named “Titanic Point”, lets me feel the ocean’s quiet, commanding presence—a reminder that the ancient and eternal waters bend to no will but their own.

Humbled by the endless horizon, I walk around the Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle Resort, a picture-perfect beach retreat nestled in the midst of an 8.5-hectare coconut estate. Designed by WATG Singapore, the resort reflects Sri Lanka’s rich cultural and architectural heritage, showcasing framed ocean vistas, open-air pavilions, and handcrafted teak furnishings. The naturally sheltered location gives the property an exclusive air, one that not many properties in Sri Lanka can lay claim to.

In a country known for its stunning beaches, Tangalle stands out as a seaside paradise, courtesy its secluded location, azure waters, and swaying palms. A three-hour drive from Bandaranaike International Airport in Colombo, Tangalle is located on the southernmost tip of the island country. An important fishing port and popular tourist town, it was once a trading hub; vestiges of its colonial past can still be seen in its many old structures.

With 152 villas and rooms offering spectacular garden and ocean views, the resort features distinct Sri Lankan touches, including rattan furniture, hand-dyed batik fabrics, and local delicacies and fruits.

The plunge pool and loungers invite me to rest a while, but I head off for cocktails at the beachside Verala restaurant.

“Verala translates to beach in Sinhala, and seems the perfect name for our seaside restaurant and bar. The architecture, inspired by the sea urchin, creates a casual beachside environment that’s perfect for dinner and drinks,” says Manoj Lovell, the Front Manager, as a server ushers me to an outside seating spot that looks over the aquamarine waters.

The weather’s calling out for a G&T, and I decide to try the local gin, Colombo, handcrafted in small batches using a copper still and involving the use of seven spices and botanicals. Garnished with citrus peel, it's extremely easy on the palate and the ideal accompaniment to our dinner: Sake Kani Salad, which combines fresh salmon and crab meat with veggies; crisp vegetable spring rolls with a sweet chilli sauce; and Tempura Udon, fresh udon noodles with prawns and vegetables in tempura sauce.

I begin walking back to my villa as the shoreline readies for the semi-diurnal high tide. I see shining lights—most likely Il Mare, the Italian restaurant located on a cliff’s edge. I traverse the narrow pathways, keeping an eye out for land monitors, as waves crash against the shore with a rolling cadence.

The next morning, at Journeys, the international restaurant that fronts the ocean, I forage for local flavours at the breakfast buffet. I skip the Kola Kandha, a herbal porridge made of greens, red rice, and coconut milk, in favour of hoppers.

The Sri Lankan version of crepes with crispy edges, hoppers are made from fermented rice batter and coconut milk. Traditionally cooked over coconut-shell embers, they can be eaten plain or with an egg cracked into the shaped-pancake.

The lacy edges and pillowy middle of the hopper seem to be made to scoop up the traditional handmade relishes: Pol Sambol, made by pounding fresh shredded coconut with dried red chilies and onions, and Lunu Miris, a spicy sambol of chillies and onions seasoned with salt and lemon juice.

Executive Sous Chef, Ruwana De Alwis, tells me that sambol is unique and ubiquitous to Sri Lanka. “Coconut sambol, made with grated coconut, Maldive fish, dried red chillies, and lime juice pairs perfectly with local staples like rice, rotis, hoppers, and string hoppers,” he says.

A cup of coffee later, I decline the server’s offer to get me a string hopper, rice noodles pressed into soft discs and steamed, with chicken curry and sambol. Tomorrow’s another day, after all!

A walk on the beach transforms a good day into a great one. There’s something about the smell of salt water, the rhythmic sound of waves, and the feeling of warm sand amid the toes.

Marine biologist Wallace Nichols, in his book Blue Mind, describes the feeling of being near the water best: “A mildly meditative state characterised by calm, peacefulness, unity, and a sense of general happiness and satisfaction with life in the moment.”

I find plenty to do at Anantara Tangalle Peace Haven, which seems as much a destination as the town it’s located in. I can head to Spice Spoons, a cooking class focused on Sri Lankan cuisine; sign up for beginner’s surfing class conducted on the grounds; or enjoy a fresh woodfire-cooked meal at Mama’s Kitchen, a mud and straw hut in the middle of a rice paddy. The resort also organises meditation classes, beachside yoga, badminton and tennis games, nature walks, kayaking, movie nights, and children’s clubs.

I choose to step into the sanctuary of the award-winning Anantara Spa where the lush greenery and blooming lotuses fail to detract from the ocean views. The in-house doctor, a sixth-generation Ayurveda practitioner, focuses on doshas and DNA blueprints, offering suggestions to improve wellness.

The Anantara Signature Massage, with a signature oil blend and purpose-designed movements, will “stimulate circulation, promote relaxation, and restore the flow of energy, or prana, along the meridian lines”, the smiling spa attendant tells me.

An hour later, as I sip fine Ceylon tea sweetened with jaggery, I agree with her assessment. She tells me the in-room Slumber Guru experience—a foot reflexology session followed by a luxurious soak—is the perfect way to unwind. But I disagree. Lounging in the pool villa is the perfect way to wind down!

That evening, at reception, I bump into the front manager, who offers local knowledge about nearby attractions: Mulkirigala Rock Temple, a sacred pilgrimage site for Buddhists; Yala National Park, Sri Lanka’s most popular wildlife reserve and the second-largest park on the island; Bundala National Park, a wintering ground for migratory water birds; Rekawa Turtle Watch, a conservation project that protects nesting sites; and the old fort town of Tangalle.

On my way back to my room, I see content faces around me: chilling by the poolside bar, enjoying a game of tennis, or heading for a designer dining session. There seem to be plenty of ways to find your bliss in Tangalle. I am happy to find it at the beach, where time isn’t measured by the hour, where it moves in tandem with the tides, currents, and the sun.

(Photos courtesy: Anantara Peace Heaven Tangalle)